By the front of the hospital, down Wigginton Road, escaping away from the traffic down the path by allotments, descending the sloped path where greenery is already brightening, down onto the lower level where the trains used to run, under the curved brickwork of the bridge. Turning left, onto a daffodil-lined path, passing a solar-powered clock, a reminder of the old factory. Part of its old cleared site on the right, Cocoa West.

Then along the stretch of road rather dull to walk in winter, now livened up by so much greening over of hawthorn in the hedges. Wild things beginning their spring growth and flowering beneath. Daisy, dandelion, celandine.

There’s still a factory, on this site next to the old cleared one, and from it, on this sunny Sunday, comes the scent of cocoa.

On its boundary, forsythia and flowering currant — those old stalwarts of so many suburban gardens — fling their bright and brazen flowers into the midst of subdued hues from tree branches whose buds are yet to open.

Past two stone gateposts, perhaps marking the site of the long-gone herdsman’s cottage. Across a wide road into the factory site, to the cycle track into Bootham Stray, and an escape from the road and its traffic.

Looking for blackthorn in flower, and heading for a large area of it I’ve appreciated in other years. Climbing over a stile, into the piece of land between the railway line and the cycle track. The road isn’t far away, but it feels forgotten about now, here in this wilder place.

The blackthorn remains budded, no flowers yet, despite the sun beaming down on it across this open land.

I head for the convenient gap in the hedge, across a bit of ditch which thankfully isn’t water-filled, and emerge back onto the cycle path side, after a brief period of being caught up in brambles and stumbling out to startle a passing cyclist.

Back then, to continue the wander on another bit of the stray, on the other side of the road.

A gate here is sometimes left open and sometimes closed. It’s clearly controversial.

(Rude word obscured)

At the level crossing, walking over the line slanting its way across the road, lines in the light, heading for Scarborough.

Across the road, a cockerel crows from the allotments. On the strip of grass between the allotments and the road I walk past pollen-filled catkins and the bright soft leaves of hedge mustard.

Then through another couple of gates in this strangely divided-up place, back to having to cross the road again, where a public footpath sign on the other side points the path across this grassed land. I head for the middle of it and stand, and look back towards the city, the factory, the railway line.

Thinking about how long it’s been since I went towards town to look at developments on those brownfield sites. Generally preferring the green fields, and heading outwards. Looking at plants more than buildings.

When the housing is built on Cocoa West and the old factory building is filled with flats I guess more people will be out here, walking on the stray. At present I rarely see anyone else, beyond the many cyclists using the cycle track through part of this stray land.

It’s just as well there’s no one else around, as I may look odd picking nettle tops. As I do, after donning the necessary gloves and getting a bag out of my rucksack. A traditional springtime tonic, apparently, though I didn’t know this until a few years back. They need a lot of washing, back home, then steaming to get rid of the sting, then they’re a welcome green thing to eat just as the new green things are emerging.

Time to head back home, across the field and the road, by the allotments where the cockerel crows. To the edge of the stray, where the housing begins.

Past an old faded wooden street sign on a house wall, denoting one end of Burton Stone Lane. A wide road lined with lime trees on the verges and generously sized interwar houses down both sides. Forsythia in bloom in the front gardens. The sound of children playing, shouting. Passing the park, with families just leaving, heading home for tea.

I can smell someone’s tea cooking, and realise how hungry I am, and remember how long Burton Stone Lane is, and how I’m heading for the other end of it. It seems longer than usual, and I hope that at home we’ll have something else to eat and not just the steamed nettles.

Past the shops, past the church, past gardens with daffodils brightly bobbing in the breeze, and pausing a while to looked at the cleared part of the former Duncombe Barracks site. More on that story later perhaps.

. . . . .

A lot to catch up on. Your ko-fi coffees help pay the bills and power more pages. Thank you.

The post Spring equinox wanderings, Bootham Stray appeared first on York Stories.

Sunset over Clifton, with Bootham Crescent floodlights, Jan 2021

The photo above was taken from Crichton Avenue bridge, looking across the Clifton area of the city, in January this year. I’ve included it as the first image because this skyline, so familiar to me and many others, has since lost something. To the left, silhouetted against the sunset sky, are two of the floodlights that lit the Bootham Crescent football ground for so many years.

I’m writing this at 7pm on the last day of December. Technical difficulties and other issues earlier mean I won’t be able to send out a mailing list email about this, or the previous page, so perhaps no one will realise it’s here and read it, but I thought I should make the effort anyway, as this end of year review is now a tradition.

Also, there were quite a few things I wanted to add to these pages and didn’t, so this seems like a good time to at least give them a brief mention.

In January, plans to build a multi-storey car park at St George’s Field were approved – part of the wider Castle Gateway plans. (Approval doesn’t mean it will happen, as this proposal was seen as controversial, and sparked debate and disagreement, which continues.)

At the heart of the Castle Gateway plans is of course the castle – Clifford’s Tower – which back in February was surrounded by an impressive scaffolding structure.

Clifford’s Tower surrounded by scaffolding, Feb 2021

Major conservation works to the tower’s historic fabric have been taking place, alongside the installation of a new free standing roof deck.

In February came ‘the most shameful and absurd decision any committee has ever made‘, according to the author Terry Deary. Quite a claim. He was speaking to BBC Radio York, in response to a planning committee decision to refuse plans for a ‘Roman Quarter’ on Rougier Street. ‘They have put a knife into the city,’ he said.

I’ve just looked at a draft page I did on this, which didn’t get finished and published. I want to just include a couple of images from it.

This is how the end of Rougier Street looks at present (photo taken one evening earlier this year when I was up that way looking at the Triangular Gardens):

Approaching Rougier Street, 2021

As you pass through the archway in the city walls, this is what would greet you if the Roman Quarter proposals had gone ahead.

What had been proposed … Roman Quarter (Image: planning application documents)

Presumably the massive great bit on the top was intended to finance the interesting bit underneath. Glad it wasn’t approved, and still surprised at Mr Deary’s hyperbole, all these months on. As far as I know he doesn’t live in York so wouldn’t have to see the huge thing as often as we would.

Anyway, moving on. It was spring next.

Daffodils on Bootham Stray, 20 March 2021

Daffodils on the bar walls are a familiar sight, and have clearly been deliberately planted in that city centre location. But it’s always interesting and a bit odd to see tidy clumps of large-flowered daffodils in more remote locations. These were a surprising sight in the middle of Bootham Stray, a clump of yellow standing alone in what was otherwise a landscape made up mainly of grass and nettles. Presumably deliberately planted here by someone. Or perhaps brought in in soil dumped from somewhere else.

Back to the built environment, moving on into April.

In recent years the city has seen many blocks of purpose-built student accommodation built, and although it might have seemed like there must now be enough to satisfy demand, apparently that’s not the case, with plans for more still being considered. In April plans for another new block – on the former Plumbase site on Fawcett Street, came before the planning committee. Concerns were expressed about ‘teeny tiny rooms’. The application wasn’t approved, but deferred. It came back before the committee again during the course of the year.

Also in April, the floodlights at Bootham Crescent came on for the final time. Those of us living close to the ground perhaps thought that we’d already seen the last dimming of the lights before that, with the disruptions caused by Covid meaning that there wasn’t an obvious farewell game. For those of us who cared, fans, and neighbours, this final switch-on was significant and important. And also very nicely done. (As reported in yorkmix.com.)

In May … oh lovely May. I had some notes about things I could include, but …

Clifton Park, May 2021

… it was May, and it was green and lovely, as it always is.

I wrote a flurry of pages back in May.

In June, the plans for student accommodation on the former Plumbase site on Fawcett Street were back with the planning committee. Though the officer report recommended approval, the committee voted to refuse.

In July, after their last switch on back in April, the Bootham Crescent floodlights came down. Lowered slowly onto the now meadow-like long grass of the pitch. Such a familiar part of the skyline, and so familiar to me after so long living nearby. It took some time to adjust to their absence.

In August, the Press reported that a new area of woodland near Knapton in York was to be named York Community Woodland. It’s a place I’ve wanted to cover here on York Stories but haven’t got around to yet. More information on this link.

In September, plans for the former Plumbase site on Fawcett Street were back with the planning committee again …

Away from the buildings, I find I appreciate more and more a walk by the Foss, and had a pleasant stomp down this way in September.

By the Foss, 10 September 2021

In October, plans for the closure and redevelopment of part of the Barnitts shop on Colliergate were approved, having been deferred at an earlier planning committee meeting.

The Barnitts store on Colliergate remains, and clearly that’s the most important thing.

Early on, I looked at the plans to turn the former Drill Hall into townhouses and apartments, and it looked like just another development of more cramped housing with not much light, which was a bit disappointing. It has been suggested to me that it would make a good music venue. Makes sense. We’re rather lacking in those now, here in York. But perhaps not financially viable.

In November, plans for more student accommodation went to the area planning sub-committee. On this occasion, not in the former Plumbase premises on Fawcett Street, but at the Castle Howard Ox pub on Townend Street, off Clarence Street. The application was refused, despite the officer recommendation to approve.

Moving on to November. In November, and at many other times through this year (and previous years), I walked through Bootham Park.

Bootham Park, November 2021

I was trying to get a better sense of the plans for its redevelopment, as discussed in a page earlier this year, particularly in regard to the loss of trees, and what looks like an unreasonable amount of car parking proposed, for a site so close to the city centre.

In December, the planning committee approved plans for the Cocoa West development, as mentioned on the previous page.

The same committee meeting discussed a planning application for the former Mecca Bingo building on Fishergate – replacing it with purpose built student accommodation – 276 rooms. The application was deferred.

Presumably still a lot of money to be made from providing purpose-built student accommodation, hence the high number of applications still coming in, for various sites, and the way that the former Plumbase plans kept coming back through the year.

Away from the buildings, sidling gently into December’s quietness and its winter skies, and the tree branches against them. In December, doing my best to appreciate all the local and good things, as I always try to do, I had a walk up to Clifton Park to hug a couple of old beech trees and watch the sunset to the west.

Clifton Park, December 2021

. . . . . .

Thanks to everyone who has supported the site this year with virtual coffees, and added comments with information and memories. I also appreciate the good work of the local journalists and local democracy reporters who have so helpfully covered the many planning applications this year and continue to keep us all informed.

Best wishes to everyone for 2022.

The post Review of the year, 2021 appeared first on York Stories.

The Cocoa Works in all its complexity, in times past

Previously, we were at the Cocoa Works development, the former Rowntree factory buildings facing Haxby Road. These are just part of what used to be a very large site, shown on the old image above.

Behind the main factory buildings, demolition took place more than a decade ago to clear the rest of this part of the site, back to the Wigginton Road entrance. (Wigginton Road is indicated by a line of trees in the top left of the image above.) This large site was then known as Nestlé South — as Nestlé retained more modern buildings to the north.

The cleared area behind the main factory buildings is now known as Cocoa West, and a planning application for its redevelopment has recently been approved.

This is an important development — the future of a place so significant in the history of this city I call home — and I appreciated having some free time to focus on it again — so let’s continue the journey, with photos taken earlier this month.

We start where the previous page ended, by the arch of the bridge that carried Haxby Road over the railway line in times past. We were looking up from it, at the factory buildings, but now stay at its level, down in the cutting between roads.

Haxby Road bridge over the cycle track (former railway line), 12 Dec 2021

What was a railway line has for some decades been a cycle track.

There are so many of these brick-built bridges curving across former railway lines. Easier to appreciate them now, passing under them on two wheels or on foot. As is often the case, this one is graffiti-covered. It doesn’t bother me at all, personally, down here under the curve of the bridges, I like the creativity of it, the bright bursts of colour.

Graffiti, Haxby Road bridge, 12 Dec 2021

‘AND THEY KEEP ON WALKIN …’ it says.

So let’s keep on doing that. Passing under the arch of the bridge, and coming out into the late afternoon sunlight, we pass one end of the old factory buildings previously discussed, here viewed through trees.

Old factory – Cocoa Works -from the cycle track

The trees alongside this former railway line have grown a lot since the trains ran through here. This section to the south of the old factory site is a tree-shaded green tunnel for cyclists and pedestrians, and a much-appreciated and well-used link between Haxby Road and Wigginton Road.

We approach the curved brick bridge carrying Wigginton Road over what used to be a railway line.

Cycle track, approaching Wigginton Road, December 2021

Here, on the section of track near Wigginton Road, the factory had its own stop, Rowntree Halt. I was pleased to find some images, and even a film, from the days when the trains ran down here.

Passenger train approaching Rowntree Halt, late 1980s. Still from BFI film.

There was also a line in to the factory site, pictured here. (There are a couple more images of the line and platform at the bottom of this page too, and a nice photo and more information on this page.)

As we get to the bridge, on a winter afternoon, the sunlight is so low, but let’s hope there’s enough left to illuminate and illustrate ‘Cocoa West’ …

Cycle track and bridge, Wigginton Road, 12 Dec 2021

We take a right turn here just before the bridge, and it takes us on a short section of cycle path through more trees, passing one of the old factory clocks, and to the Wigginton Road entrance to what used to be the other part of the old factory site.

Cocoa West, Wigginton Road, 12 Dec 2021

It’s a very large site, the size perhaps not clear from the image above.

Most of its buildings were cleared some years back. On this side, one small gatehouse remains, to remind us of the factory with such a long history.

By the entrance to the old factory site, Wigginton Rd

In the background are the old factory buildings visited on the previous page.

In late afternoon sun back in December 2009 I took photos from this Wigginton Road entrance as the range of buildings on this side of the site were being demolished.

Demolition of former factory buildings, from Wigginton Rd, Dec 2009

Quite a collection of structures, different shapes and sizes. What a confectionery manufacturer needed back then, and doesn’t need now.

Demolition of former factory buildings, from Wigginton Rd, Dec 2009

Melangeur block before demolition, Dec 2009

This month, so many years on from the demolition pictured above, a planning application  has been approved for housing development here. The Cocoa West development was approved at a recent planning committee meeting. Not just approved, but welcomed:

Councillor Michael Pavlovic said: “It really is heartening to hear of an application that ticks quite so many boxes – it’s not something this committee is used to from developers.”

The planning application documents state:

Our vision is for Cocoa West to become an uplifting and sustainable neighbourhood, with productive, ecologically rich landscapes and crafted architecture that respects the site’s heritage and celebrates its legacy

— and include images of how it will look:

Image from plans for Cocoa West (ref 21/01371/FULM)

A new link will be made to the cycle track/former railway line (shown on the right of the image above).

This place has been a long-running thread through these York Stories pages. I don’t have close personal family connection to the factory, and probably didn’t appreciate the Rowntree approach, and its legacy, when I was younger, as much as I should have done, but have appreciated it more in more recent years. Over the years I’ve included many pages on the Rowntree factory (see all pages tagged Rowntree on this link).

Dear readers, your knowledge, insights, comments, and coffees, are welcome as always.

The post From Cocoa Works to Cocoa West appeared first on York Stories.

A brief York walk, earlier this evening.

By Scarborough Bridge, looking across the river towards the end of Marygate, the Museum Gardens and Minster behind.

New signs point out the more accessible sloped access, a relatively recent improvement.

On Leeman Road, the handsome gates to the Memorial Gardens.

The new development known as Hudson Quarter. More on this link.

Just outside the walls, near Queen Street bridge.

Micklegate Bar, and evening sunlight.

Looking through the springtime green of trees to the street called Toft Green.

By the corner of the city walls between Micklegate Bar and the station, patterns and light on the old stone.

Hudson Quarter again.

And some older and more recognisable buildings.

Looking out from the walls.

On Lendal Bridge, looking towards Ouse Bridge. That 20th century hotel block in the middle is rather dominant, isn’t it.

The post Short York Walk, 7 May appeared first on York Stories.

Emerging from the tunnel

Previously, we headed through the Marble Arch tunnel to have a wander along Cinder Lane, behind the station. This time we’re emerging from the tunnel to have a quick walk along Leeman Road, with photos taken a few weeks back, on 19 April.

This led me to think more about the proposed closure of Leeman Road, and the railway museum expansion plans.

As pictured above, we emerge from the tunnel to a rather cluttered assemblage of signs and railings, and a metal footbridge over the road.

We pass the Railway Museum. Just past it, across the road, demolition is underway on one of the buildings being removed for the York Central redevelopment.

Demolition of concrete works, off Leeman Road

It was a concrete works, apparently.

Though I may have given the impression in the past of wanting to hang on to every old industrial building in this area, that isn’t the case. I wasn’t even aware of this one.

I walked a bit further along Leeman Road, having read references to York Central including tree clearance works close to Bishopfields Drive, a road I’ve never been down and thought I would.

Leeman Road

It’s not a handsome road, Leeman Road. Functional, industrial, commercial. It heads off away from the city centre round the edge of the railway lands, under a bridge under the railway line and towards a large area of mainly terraced housing. (We’re not going that far on this occasion, though I have previously, quite a few times.).

I’m not sure how much traffic it carries at busier times, but it seems generally quiet when I’m up here.

Just past the demolition site of the concrete works is quite a large development of interlinking streets, a fairly recent build. A couple of photos I have from back in 2004 suggest it was partly built by then.

Phoenix Boulevard and connecting streets, off Leeman Road

It’s interesting, as it seems to have taken quite a chunk out of what used to be called the ‘teardrop’ site. I’m not sure why this area of land was developed when others weren’t. It’s apparently called St Peter’s Quarter, though I hadn’t realised that until I was compiling this page.

The housing is in a style I don’t think I’ve seen elsewhere in York (though clearly I haven’t been to every part of town). I had a walk to the far edge of it, where there’s a green space, with part of the York Central site on the other side. I couldn’t see anything much from there as there was still a lot of tree and shrub coverage.

The community of houses here felt very ‘self-contained’, which I guess it would as it’s on the edge of a large brownfield site. The majority of the Leeman Road area housing is quite some way further down Leeman Road.

Next to St Peter’s Quarter are just two short terraced streets, apparently connected with the old foundry buildings I visited many years back. (See this very old page from summer 2004 and this equally old page on the nearby railway lands.)

There used to be a pub here too, the Junction. That was demolished and replaced with housing.

Time to head back towards town, past the Railway Museum. Which I used to call the National Railway Museum, or NRM, but it’s apparently had a rebranding.

Railway Museum, Leeman Road

A major part of the redevelopment of York Central is the ambitious plan for a radical overhaul of the Railway Museum. It would involve the closure of part of Leeman Road, as an official notice on a lamppost reminded me.

Notice on lamppost regarding public inquiry over road closure

In recent days the public inquiry on this road closure has been taking place, and I’ve got around to reading more about it, as I’ve been meaning to for some time. But as I’m trying to keep these pages to a reasonable and readable length, I’ll add something about that another time. Tomorrow perhaps, as my ‘May daily’ idea is going well so far.

Thanks for reading. As always, your virtual coffees are welcome in support of this long-running record of York and its changes.

The post Leeman Road and York Central appeared first on York Stories.

Entrance to Marble Arch tunnel

Let’s go for a little walk … not under the moon of love, but down the Marble Arch tunnel on Leeman Road.

You can always rely on these pages to take you to some glamorous and exotic places.

Though so much of York is prettified and gentrified, this place remains proper ‘gritty’ and grubby. Already unwelcoming, now with one of those bossy signs added for good measure. I’m wondering if this old pedestrian tunnel under the railway lines can ever be enhanced.

Once you’re in it, or rather when you’re nearly at the other end of it, it does have a certain photogenic quality, if the sun’s in the right place and shining off its white glazed bricks.

In the Marble Arch tunnel

I had a quick walk down this way one sunny evening a few weeks back, 19 April, to see what had been occurring in terms of the demolition work on the York Central site.

If you turn left after the tunnel there’s an alleyway, Cinder Lane, which cuts through round the edge of the York Central site. I’ve walked up here a few times before.

It still grows a good crop of wildflowers, in crevices in its old brickwork.

Wild things in the wall, Cinder Lane

It still has the Cinder Lane shed. Which I’ve admired many times, lovely wonky old thing.

Recently, in reports submitted as part the York Central redevelopment, I’ve seen it referred to as the Fire House.

Old shed – known as the Fire House, apparently

It’s considered interesting enough to keep, though it seems it’s going to be dismantled and moved elsewhere.

This small timber shed off Cinder Lane appears on maps of 1930s but may be older. Known to Network Rail as the Fire House it is currently assumed to have stored a fire engine.

It is recommended the shed should be carefully recorded and dismantled for re-erection elsewhere in York Central. Suggested locations might include the Foundry Yard or Central Park.

– York Central design guide

I wonder how this will work. It looks like it might collapse into itself as soon as one part is lifted from it, but then I’m no expert. I do recall though reading of other historic structures removed in the past that were supposed to be reused, and which weren’t, perhaps because they got stuck in a corner in storage somewhere and forgotten about.

Anyway, nice to know that I wasn’t alone in finding this wooden shed rather interesting.

If we continue along Cinder Lane, the footbridge over the railway gives a view I’m rather fond of. I’ve included a similar photo in the past, but went to have a look again, before it changes.

Former wagon repair works/Freightliner

Several disused buildings are to be demolished, and this is one of them.

I wonder if the structures built in its place will have the same kind of charm, in the evening sunlight. I wonder if they’ll block the view out from here towards Holgate and Poppleton Road school. Probably. And the view back this way, which I always appreciate, when cycling back from Acomb and turning into Water End, with railway buildings and railway lines and the Minster in the distance.

Anyway, time to head back to look at York Central from another angle. Appreciating, on the way, a wild plant that still hangs on in here, on the top of the wall, by the rusty old railings.

Herb Robert, Cinder Lane

Back in 2012 I included a photo of it, here in Cinder Lane, but back then I didn’t know what it was called. I now know that it’s Herb Robert, and that it likes growing in my back garden. In more favourable conditions, its leaves are green.

My walk continued along part of Leeman Road. More to follow. Possibly tomorrow even. Maybe a ‘May daily’ …

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